The day is here
The surf is clean and clear
The wind is right
It's time to take a bite
The mission begins
Prepping boards, boats and other things that float
No need to paddle you get dropped right in the channel
You sit there waiting, anticipating
Knowing that one of these beautiful waves might accept you
They've travelled for hundreds of miles to meet and greet you
Treat it with respect do what you can but never be try to be the bigger man
You see the horizon change
You feel blissful and strange
You know this one is for you
You smile and feel the sun on your face
You know your about to be in a godlike place
You paddle to meet it and all at once you are together
The drop was good the line feels right
Your heart is pumping the lip is throwing
You concentrate on your line your body aching
The shade sets in
The light changes
Your mind races with possibilities
You bend your knees and try not to freeze
Keep lose hold your line read the wave
Watch how it behaves
The end is near
Now you feel the fear
How should you handle this
Do you turn tail and bail
Punch on through knowing thats it for you
Do you grow a spine and hold your line
Hoping you will emerge and shine
A thousand and one decisions come and go in the blink of an eye
But somehow you know what to do
You know you must try
The light descends
The shade is pulled back
The explosion from behind engulfs your surfed out mind
How nice it is to feel entwined with something so divine
Written by Lloyd Burnard
