This is one of the closets waves to where I live. It's called The Bombie and apparently holds swell up to 30ft, that would be interesting to see. I've surfed a couple of times at a similar size to these photos. You have to paddle from the point to get to it, which takes about 20 minutes and that channel you can see is shark alley!
A local guy was attacked there last year, he was ok in the end but whilst paddling out there all sorts of scenarios are playing through your mind, you've just gotta put your head down and crack on, it's either that or give up surfing, and thats not likely!